Curly Girl Part 4

In my last post I told you what NOT to do with your curly hair.  If you missed it, you can see it here.  This post’s purpose is to give you healthy habits to replace your old, curl-destroying ways.

You have two fabulous options for cleansing.  The first is shampoo!  I know, I know, I told you to avoid sulfates.  Lucky for us, there are some gentle, sulfate-free shampoos on the market that won’t turn our lovely curls to straw.  Try one of these if you love the bubbles, because, unlike co-washes, they lather a little.  However, if your hair tends toward the drier side, or if you live in an arid climate, a co-wash might work better for you. (If you still think co-washing is sharing a shower with a friend, get your mind out of the gutter and see my Glossary and Resources post here.)  No suds with this option, but it will leave your scalp clean and your hair moisturized.

• Troubleshooting: If you’re solely co-washing and you begin to notice build-up, you may want to incorporate a sulfate-free shampoo from time to time for clarifying.  

Now your hair is clean; it’s time to condition.  Halt! You’re not reaching for those silicones...right?  Make sure your conditioner is clearly labelled, “silicone-free.”  If one of the ingredients ends in -cone, you’re probably going to end up with coated, limp hair.  

• Troubleshooting: If you’re absolutely positive your conditioner is safe, but your hair is still looking limp and heavy, try a lighter product.  Choose based on your curl type, porosity, density, and thickness. Again, check the Resources post for helpful links.

No matter what conditioner you choose, you'll end up with frizz if you rub your mane dry with a terrycloth towel.  So what’s a girl to do?  Buy an overpriced, salon quality, microfiber towel instead!  Haha.  Hey, if you have that in your budget, go for it!  Nothing wrong with a little luxury every now and then.  But breaking the bank isn't obligatory.  I bought my microfiber towel at the Army/Navy Surplus!  Don't want to make a trip? Just squish your hair with an old cotton t-shirt. Your husband's holey concert tees are perfect!  No joke, it works just as well.

• Troubleshooting: Remember, even with a gentle towel, you don’t want to rub your hair.  This will rough up the cuticle, destroy curl pattern, and cause frizz.  Carefully squish and squeeze until no more moisture drips out, then air dry.

Ok, ladies.  Here’s the hard part.  No more heat styling or brushing.  Ugh!  This is such a challenge.  I know.  But if you can just give it up for a little while, you’ll probably find that you no longer feel the need for those hot tools.  You hair will revitalize, regain its bounce, and return to its naturally beautiful state.  Plus, think of all the time and effort you’ll save!  If you don’t have time to air dry every time you wash, it’s ok to diffuse.  Make sure if you do, though, use a heat protectant.  Brushing also has to go.  It will turn your head into a giant ball of fluff, and that’s not a chic look.  Detangle with your fingers or a wide-toothed comb while you’re in the shower and your hair is soaked in conditioner.  Ta-da!  No more brush breaks.

Whew!  Feel any better?  I hope so, but if you still need more specific instruction, stay tuned!  My next post will include my full wash and style routine.  See you then!

 

Curly Girl: Part 3

Curly Girl: The Handbook, by Lorraine Massey is a practical instruction manual that teaches us how to love the curls with which we were born.  Compared to the work it takes to straighten natural curls, Ms. Massey’s method is surprisingly simple.  First, what not to do…

Don’t use sulfates to clean your hair.  Chances are, your shampoo shares its first active ingredient, sodium lauryl sulfate, with both the dish soap and the laundry detergent in the broom cupboard.  It will strip your hair and scalp of natural and healthy oils, leaving them dry and damaged.

Now that your sulfates are gone, you’ll need to cut silicones out of your routine.  Why?  Because they are not water soluble and can only be removed with sulfates. They will coat your hair, making it smooth and shiny... at first.  By the end of the day, however, it will combine with extra oil to make your hair look dirty and greasy.

Your next step is to throw out the terry cloth towels.  Rubbing delicate hair with the loops of terry cloth roughens cuticles.  Moisture is lost, frizz is created, even more damage is done.

And speaking of damage; don’t feel the burn!  Heat styling = unhappy hair.  Not only will it create more dryness and damage (are you seeing a trend yet?), but it will eventually prevent your curls from curling all together.  Ever wonder why your hair doesn’t really curl or lay flat, it just sticks out all willy-nilly?  This is it.  Not a good look.

Finally, give your brush the brush-off.  If your hair had feelings, it would be terrified of your hairbrush!  It grabs and pulls and tears.  It will also disrupt your curl pattern and turn your head into a humongous puff ball.  Just say, “no.”

That’s it!  You’re all set.  Go out and...hmm?...Oh, I just shattered your whole routine and now you don’t know what to do?  No worries.  In my next post, I’ll let you know how to replace the unhealthy habits.  Stay tuned, curl-friends!

Curly Girl: Part 2- Glossary and Resources

It occurs to me that I’m about to pull you into a world that may be totally unfamiliar.  This short post will serve as your glossary and reference as you navigate the rest of this series.

Glossary of terms:

• Pre-poo:  an oil or conditioning treatment used to moisturize the hair in preparation for cleansing (shampooing).
• Instructions- Soak your hair with water and coat it with your choice of oil or conditioner.  Cover with a towel or cap, and let sit for at least half an hour before shampooing.
• Sulfate-free shampoo: A gentle cleanser that contains a non-sulfate lathering agent.
• This is nice for low-porosity curlies who deal with occasional product build-up.
• Porosity:  This term refers to the way your hair cuticles lie.  If you have high porosity strands, your cuticles are open.  If you have low porosity strands, they are smooth and closed.  You’ll need to moisturize according to your porosity.
• Protein treatment: A kind of spackle for damaged hair.  This treatment is designed to repair and protect your tresses from everyday environmental damage.
• Deep conditioning treatment: A rich moisturizer designed to give your hair an extra hydration boost.
• Co-wash: Using conditioner to wash your hair.  It is much less drying than even sulfate-free shampooing.
• Instructions- distribute a thin conditioner or product labelled “co-wash” throughout your hair and onto your scalp.  Use the pads of your fingers to massage thoroughly.  It is this friction that will break up dirt and oil to leave you clean, so really get in there.  Rinse the product out.
• Leave-in/Squish to condish:  The act of leaving some or all of your conditioner in your hair.  
• Instructions- After letting your conditioner work in your hair for a few minutes, add some water (we’re not really rinsing here, just re-wetting), flip your head over and squish your hair with your hands until no more moisture squeezes out.
• Note- You could also use a product specifically labelled as “leave-in,” but that depends on how many different products you want to buy.
• Scrunching: using your hands to scrunch your hair up and encourage curl pattern.
• Holy Grail: A product that you can’t live without and will repurchase over and over.

Now that you’re familiar with some of the terminology, let me direct you to some resources to give you more information!

• Curly Girl: The Handbook, by Lorraine Massey- Get the 411 right from the source!
• The Polished Curl- The preceding link will take you to her Squish to Condish demonstration, but her whole channel is fabulous!
• Bianca Renee Today- If you have curlier or African American hair, this channel is for you.  Bianca has wonderful demonstrations and product reviews.
• Naturallycurly.com- An encyclopedia of curly/wavy information.

This should be enough to get you started.  Stay tuned for my next installment!

Curly Girl

Scene:

A young woman steps out of her steaming shower feeling clean, relaxed, and, though it’s incredibly early, ready for the day.  She moves in front of the mirror as she rubs her hair with a towel.  Tying it into a turban, she makes quick work of her beauty routine.  Finally, teeth brushed and lips sticked, she releases her hair and begins her tedious styling routine.  She sweats through a 20-minute blow-out.  Shoulders aren’t really meant for heavy coiffing.  

She checks her watch to find she still has time.  Sigh.  Flat-ironing would be so much easier if she hadn’t so very much hair.  

Half an hour later, she smiles at her reflection.  Happy with her smooth, shiny hair, she sets off into the world.

That evening, after a delicious supper and a little Netflix bingeing, she returns to the mirror.  Taking in the image of her limp, frizzy, dirty-looking hair, she groans.  Sighing, she sets the alarm for tomorrow.  It’ll chime at a ludicrous hour...again...but she’ll need the extra time to re-tame her mane.  She’ll do the same Every.  Single.  Day.

The young woman, if you haven’t guessed, was me.  Stuck in a never-ending cycle of cleaning, drying, flattening, and finding the effort finally useless, I was totally fed up.

But don’t fret.  If this story is familiar, know that it gets happier.  The catalyst?  Curly Girl: The Handbook, by Lorraine Massey.  In the upcoming series, I’ll describe my understanding of Ms. Massey’s Curly Girl Method and share how I’m making it work for me.  Stay tuned...

Cloth Diapers: Product Review- Sweet Iris Bamboo Cloth Luxury Flats

Have I sold you on flats yet?  If the easy washing, quick drying, and customizable fit haven’t convinced you, maybe you’re still thinking of flats as a boring, antiquated option that holds no appeal.  They certainly don’t have to be!  The absolute decadence of Sweet Iris Snug Bug Bamboo Cloth Luxury Flats took me a whole post to describe...

I’ve been using receiving blankets as diapers since my Alva pockets started leaking.  They work alright, especially when I add a microfiber insert, but I was pretty stoked when Dan told me I could order some real flats for Mother’s Day.  Funds were limited, so I wanted to make sure I spent them on something that met our needs perfectly.

Alice has a wisp of a waist, but she also has chubber thighs, so I definitely wanted a flat diaper with a little stretch for a snug fit.  I also wanted a bamboo or hemp content for more absorbency.  Finally, I knew I was going to be most pleased if the diapers were soft to the touch.  After doing a few days of research, I finally made my decision.  I wanted some Sweet Iris Snug Bugs.

Snug Bugs are made in the U.S.A. from imported materials.  They are 75% bamboo viscose, 20% organic cotton, and 5% spandex.  The spandex makes them nice and stretchy so that I can get a tight fit around Alice’s legs and waist.  They use a luxury brand of thread for the serged edges and tack the corners with a separate machine for durability.  One side is smooth, the other is a neat terry, and they are tagless for comfort.

Enough with the boring particulars.  I’m excited to tell you the story of receiving my package from Sweet Iris!  The cardboard box came wrapped in brown parcel paper that made satisfying crinkly sounds as I pulled it off.  From top to bottom the box was filled with fluffy, white tissue paper that floated like down to the ground as I eagerly dropped it in search of my prize.  The diapers were enclosed in pink tissue and tied with ribbon.  Waiting under the first gauzy pink layer was a handwritten note from the maker wishing me enjoyment of the diapers.  When I finally got to the flats themselves and ran my fingers over them, I wanted to curl up with them and take a nap!  In all, Sweet Iris clearly takes great care to make the experience special for each momma; the whole thing just drips with luxury.

The website instructs the customer to wash the diapers “at least once,” and that full absorbency will come with several more washings.  I certainly wasn’t going to be patient enough to wash more than once before trying them out, but it turns out that I didn’t need to.  My new Snug Bugs were unexpectedly tested during Alice’s first wear.  I happily wrapped her into the flat at about 9am and packed her up to visit my mom.  The weather was beginning to warm up, and I had included her beanie in the diaper bag, so Mom decided take her for a walk in the park.  They enjoyed the fresh air for about an hour and a half, which must have tired Alice out, because she conked out during the ten-minute car ride home.  I arrived to pick her up an hour later, and she awoke shortly thereafter.  After over three hours (my normal limit is one and a half), I expected to find a very leaky baby!  Nope.  That little flat wasn’t even soaked to capacity.  Who knew that a flat so trim and soft could be so functional?

Okay, okay.  I know what you’re thinking.  You’re skeptical because wetness isn’t a momma’s biggest challenge.  So let’s get down to business...poop.  You know how a baby will sometimes not, um, “go” for a couple of days?  And you know how messy it can be when it finally happens? Yeah.  Not to be graphic, but last week, after a forty-eight hour wait, we had a Play-Doh Fun Factory going down there!  It didn’t even phase my jelly rolled, diaper bag folded Snug Bug.  No blow out!

So, would I recommend the Sweet Iris Snug Bug Bamboo Cloth Luxury Flat?  Heck yes!!  Remember, you can certainly get by using receiving blankets, swaddles, t-shirts, etc, but Snug Bugs are a fabulous addition to your stash if you can afford a few spendier items.  I can’t wait to save up for more!

Cloth Diapers: Just Tell Me What to Buy- Combinations

Late in my pregnancy, Dan and I started discussing cloth diapering.  We both liked the idea, but didn’t know where to start.  I went to the blogosphere and spent hours reading “Cloth 101” posts.  I practically got a degree in the subject from YouTube University.  By the time I needed help crawling out of bed, I felt decently prepared to fold, wash, pin, and spray my way through fluff heaven.  I had only one question: “What EXACTLY do I need to buy?!”

No matter how long and hard I searched, I couldn’t find a simple shopping list.  There is, of course, an explanation for this.  You see, each family is different and has its own specific needs.  Your unique situation will pose unique challenges, to which there will be unique solutions.  So how could there be a single, perfect shopping list that works for everyone?  Answer: There can’t be, and isn’t.

What I am attempting to do is define some typical situations, then offer some suggestions for how to fit cloth diapering into them.  As I completed the draft, I realized that it was way too long for a single post.  I’ve decided to break it into a series.  Each post will begin with this introduction and the basics for any fluff momma, then follow with a more specific type of family in mind.  I’ll post a new entry each day until I’m out of ideas.  

We’ve addressed newborns, reluctant caregivers, night leaking, and green options.  So congratulations.  I know that you fit perfectly into one of these categories and… what’s that?  You don’t actually fit into one of these categories?  You mean, every fluff momma is unique and every family has their own, special needs?  Haha.  Ok.  Let me give you a couple of examples of how to combine styles…

The Combination:

You have a newborn who will be staying with your less-than-supportive aunt part time.

The Challenge:

You’ll need a thrifty diaper that can be changed like a disposable.

The Solution:

Go the prefold and cover route while Baby is with you, and purchase some used newborn AIOs for when she’s with her aunt.  You can find cloth diaper selling and trading all over the internet.  I suggest starting with the cloth diaper finder on the Dirty Diaper Laundry website.  There are also Facebook groups and consignment stores to search.  You’ll save money and your aunt will be happy.  Everyone wins!

The Shopping List:

• (1 AIO for every 2 hrs with Auntie) x 2 so that you can wash every other day
• 12 prefolds
• 4-5 PUL covers with aplix
• 2 Snappis

The Combination

You have a newborn, but you wish to go green and all-natural.

The Challenges:

• Find an easy, all-natural alternative to PUL covers
• Use less water and energy
• Save money on diapers you’ll not use for very long.

The Solution:

If you’d like the ease of a PUL cover without the petroleum, try a one-size wool cover with snaps or aplix that can grow with your baby.  It will go onto your baby exactly the same way, you’ll just need to hand wash instead of throwing them into the machine.  I’d get a couple extra covers because newborns tend to have explosive poos.  You’re likely to need to wash more often.  

Prefolds wash and dry pretty easily, but if you want to take it to the next level, flats are even cheaper and work great for newborns!  Buy small sizes, or if you’re concerned with bulk you can order half-flats.  Buy them in organic materials, and don’t forget your Snappis!

The Shopping List

• 30-40 organic flats
• 6 one-size wool covers with aplix or snaps
• 1 tube lanolin
• 1 container organic or all-natural baby or wool wash
• 2 Snappis

With either of these combinations, don’t forget your basics…

The (Basic) Situation:

You’ve decided to cloth diaper.  Congrats, Momma!  You’re going to have so much fun!

The Challenges:

Cover the basics that any fluff momma will need.

The Solution:

You’ll need a container to store dirty diapers until wash day, some waterproof bags for on-the-go changes, and some good detergent.  You may also want to have some dryer balls, some cloth diaper-safe rash cream, some cloth wipes, and a small spray bottle for wipes solution.

Try a laundry basket for your dirty diapers, as the airflow will prevent stink.  If you’d rather go with a closed system, you’ll need a couple of large wet bags to line the pail.  Two smaller wet bags will fit in the diaper bag for outings.  

Don’t waste your money on “cloth safe” detergents.  Whatever you use on your clothes is probably fine, unless it has fabric softener in it.  Fabric softener and dryer sheets are big no-nos for fluff, because they make your diapers repellent.  Most commercial diaper rash creams will do the same.  Wool dryer balls can replace your fabric softener, and there are some lovely cloth-safe creams on the market.

As long as you’re doing diaper laundry, you may as well use cloth wipes as well.  Purchase enough to get you from wash day to wash day, and get a small spray bottle to wet them with.  No need to buy special solution, as there are many recipes on Pinterest, or you can just use plain water.

The Shopping List:

• A tall laundry basket or diaper pail
• 2 large wetbags (if you choose a pail)
• 2 small wetbags
• A detergent without fabric softener
• At least 2 wool dryer balls
• A cloth safe diaper cream
• 30 cloth wipes or cheap baby washcloths
• A small spray bottle

I hope this article has helped you decide how to spend your stash money!  Do you have a specific situation that I didn’t cover?  Leave a comment below and I’ll address it!

Cloth Diapering: Just Tell Me What to Buy- Green Mommas

Late in my pregnancy, Dan and I started discussing cloth diapering.  We both liked the idea, but didn’t know where to start.  I went to the blogosphere and spent hours reading “Cloth 101” posts.  I practically got a degree in the subject from YouTube University.  By the time I needed help crawling out of bed, I felt decently prepared to fold, wash, pin, and spray my way through fluff heaven.  I had only one question: “What EXACTLY do I need to buy?!”

No matter how long and hard I searched, I couldn’t find a simple shopping list.  There is, of course, an explanation for this.  You see, each family is different and has its own specific needs.  Your unique situation will pose unique challenges, to which there will be unique solutions.  So how could there be a single, perfect shopping list that works for everyone?  Answer: There can’t be, and isn’t.

What I am attempting to do is define some typical situations, then offer some suggestions for how to fit cloth diapering into them.  As I completed the draft, I realized that it was way too long for a single post.  I’ve decided to break it into a series.  Each post will begin with this introduction and the basics for any fluff momma, then follow with a more specific type of family in mind.  I’ll post a new entry each day until I’m out of ideas.  Let me know if I miss something, I’d be happy to address it!

You can review yesterday's conversation about nighttime leaks here. We've also talked about reluctant caregivers.  You can read about it here.  The day before that we addressed newborns.  Read it here.  

The (Basic) Situation:

You’ve decided to cloth diaper.  Congrats, Momma!  You’re going to have so much fun!

The Challenges:

Cover the basics that any fluff momma will need.

The Solution:

You’ll need a container to store dirty diapers until wash day, some waterproof bags for on-the-go changes, and some good detergent.  You may also want to have some dryer balls, some cloth diaper-safe rash cream, some cloth wipes, and a small spray bottle for wipes solution.

Try a laundry basket for your dirty diapers, as the airflow will prevent stink.  If you’d rather go with a closed system, you’ll need a couple of large wet bags to line the pail.  Two smaller wet bags will fit in the diaper bag for outings.  

Don’t waste your money on “cloth safe” detergents.  Whatever you use on your clothes is probably fine, unless it has fabric softener in it.  Fabric softener and dryer sheets are big no-nos for fluff, because they make your diapers repellent.  Most commercial diaper rash creams will do the same.  Wool dryer balls can replace your fabric softener, and there are some lovely cloth-safe creams on the market.

As long as you’re doing diaper laundry, you may as well use cloth wipes as well.  Purchase enough to get you from wash day to wash day, and get a small spray bottle to wet them with.  No need to buy special solution, as there are many recipes on Pinterest, or you can just use plain water.

The Shopping List:

• A tall laundry basket or diaper pail
• 2 large wetbags (if you choose a pail)
• 2 small wetbags
• A detergent without fabric softener
• At least 2 wool dryer balls
• A cloth safe diaper cream
• 30 cloth wipes or cheap baby washcloths
• A small spray bottle

The Situation:

You’re a green momma!  You want to do fluff with as little environmental impact as possible.  All-natural?  All the better!

The Challenges:

• You wish to use as little water and energy as possible.
• You don’t love PUL or fleece because they are petroleum by-products.

The Solution:

If you’re a green momma, you’re about to give your heart to flats and wool covers.  I know, I know.  I’ve been beating the flats drum for three posts.  I’m gonna keep at it, too, until I bring you around!

Diapers can be murder to wash and dry.  It takes a ton of water to rinse waste out of all those layers, another ton to wash with detergent, and then still more to rinse away the soap.  If you use diapers with PUL backing the water can only get at the fabric from one side, making efficient cleaning well-nigh impossible.  What’s worse, diaper fabric is designed to be absorbent, so you can skyrocket your energy bill trying to dry all that bulk.

Flats eliminate the bulk and the layers.  Water can swish and flow right through them and back again, getting them squeaky clean without depleting the oceans.  They even wash well an HE washer.  It takes no time at all to run a dry cycle, but even better, you can hang them in the sun on a warm day and find them dry in an hour (the bonus to this is that the sun erases stains, too!).  Buy 24-40 of them in organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, or a combination thereof, or upcycle some swaddle or receiving blankets.  Double them up for extra absorbency when needed.  Don’t forget your trusty Snappis for diaper bag and changing table!

Using a wool cover is the only all-natural way of waterproofing your diapers.  It does have to be lanolized and hand-washed, but not very often.  When well-lanolized, wool is antimicrobial, so you can leave it to air dry, then put it right back on the baby.  It will only need to be washed every couple of weeks (unless it’s poopy) and lanolized every month or so (unless you’re having some leaking).  All this means you’ll be saving wash water and diapering with all-natural materials, all at the same time.  Good job, Green Momma!  You’ll want to have 4-5 wool covers so that you can be drying 2 and rotating 2 at any given time.

The Shopping List:

• 24-40 organic flats
• 2 Snappis
• 4-5 wool covers (choose regular covers with aplix or snaps, shorties, or longies, depending on your preference and the season)
• 1 tube lanolin
• 1 container organic or all-natural baby or wool wash